Wednesday 28 May 2014

Snack Happy with Zucchini Hummus

Zucchini Hummus
Snack Time Just Got Yummier

Hi friends. Sorry I've been away for a while. I've been stuck down a rabbit hole trying to create a successful (read: tasty) breakfast cookie and failing miserably. After all that hard work, I was in need of a little snack, and I thought you might be, too. This recipe is another great one from my mom, who has been following a raw food diet on and off for the past few years. The idea here is that zucchini replaces the cooked chickpeas and, if you're really into raw, you buy raw tahini as well. For me, it's just a lighter, more refreshing take on traditional hummus. Oh, and super fast and easy. Enjoy!

Zucchini Hummus 
Prep Time: 5 min. Total Time: 10 min. Makes: Approx. 3 cups
2 zucchini, peeled and chopped
2 to 4 cloves garlic, peeled 
3/4 cup tahini
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
2-1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp cumin

Place all ingredients in a blender. Blend until smooth. 







Tuesday 6 May 2014

Ratatouille Is a Side Dish with Soul

Ratatouille
Ratatouille, the simplest of soul foods 

Why do we cook? When does it have more meaning than getting dinner on the table, when does it provide nourishment not only for the body but for the soul? This coming weekend will be my first Mother's Day. Cooking and motherhood are entwined in my mind. My mom is an excellent cook, and she taught my brother, sister and me the importance of eating well, of food as tradition, of food as an expression of love and care. When mothers cook, so often there is much more going on than just making a meal.

I was thinking about all of this yesterday morning as I made ratatouille. I've read much about this rustic French dish. How it can be sublimely aromatic and warming, the flavour of each vegetable enhancing without overshadowing the others, or it can become soupy and mushy, the vegetables indistinguishable from one another. Chefs call for the cooking of the vegetables in separate pans to retain their individual flavour, folding them together only at the very end. 

The recipe I share here is far more efficient than that, offering the type of ingenuity that only a mother who has neither the time nor inclination to wash 10 different pans can create. Here you layer the ingredients in one dish so they retain their integrity while being infused with flavour from garlic, spices and herbs. It is the result of generations of French mothers honing and passing down their secrets for coaxing deliciousness out of humble ingredients. It is a dish that makes use of bumper crops from the kitchen garden, that has an inherent savouriness that requires only crusty bread, maybe a poached egg on top. It is about nourishment, health, frugality and transforming vegetables into a dish with meaning and soul. It is about what mothers do in so many ways without us ever realizing.  

Ratatouille 
Prep Time: 15 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 15 min. Serves: 4
*adapted from "The Country Cooking of France" by Anne Willan

2 small eggplants, thinly sliced into rounds
2 zucchini, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds
2 to 3 generous pinches salt
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
2 small leeks, washed and sliced
2 shallots, diced
salt and pepper
3 cloves garlic, minced 
1 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed
pinch red chili flakes
4 medium tomatoes, seeded and diced
2 medium red bell peppers, seeded and sliced
bouquet garni (3 sprigs thyme, 2 bay leaves, handful parsley)
2 tbsp chopped parsley

Spread eggplant and zucchini slices onto trays, sprinkle with salt and allow to sit for 30 min. to draw out moisture. Rinse, drain and dry on paper towels.

Heat 2 tbsp oil in a pot and sauté leek and shallots (season with salt and pepper) on medium heat until softened, approx. 5 to 7 min. Remove pot from heat. In a small bowl, mix garlic with coriander, chili flakes and a pinch each of salt and pepper.

Layer eggplant, zucchini, peppers and tomatoes in pot, sprinkling garlic mixture between each layer. Place bouquet garni in middle of pot, pushing into layers. Drizzle with remaining olive oil.

Return pot to heat, cover and gently simmer on medium low for approx. 30 min., stirring toward the end of cooking. If there is too much liquid, remove lid and allow to simmer for approx. 10 to 15 min. to reduce. Remove bouquet garni, adjust seasoning as necessary and sprinkle with chopped parsley to serve. 



Thursday 24 April 2014

Pasta Salad & Shrimp with Middle Eastern Flare

Middle-Eastern Spiced Shrimp & Israeli Cous Cous Salad with Spicy Basil Dressing
What's for dinner? Spice-rubbed shrimp on a bed of Israeli Cous Cous 

Over the past few summers, my staple barbecue side dish has been an orzo salad. I don't really follow a recipe, but you can expect some medley of olives, feta, peppers and tomatoes to be involved. It's a good salad, but I have a feeling my friends and family are getting a little tired of it. Or, at least, I am. 

Today's recipe, well, it's more like three, is the result of an experiment to find an alternative. Instead of orzo, I tried out Israeli Cous Cous, which I've had frequently at restaurants and loved, but not made at home. Have you tried it? It's larger than North African cous cous with a nice firm texture and cooks like regular pasta. I prefer smaller pastas for salads and this is an elegant alternative to orzo or macaroni.

When making pasta salad, here's a tip I learned from a food stylist that works: often you read about rinsing pasta for pasta salads to cool it down – don't. You'll wash off the starch, which you need for the dressing to adhere. Instead, spread it on a baking sheet and toss with a touch of oil to prevent sticking, then pop it in your fridge for a few minutes to cool. You're pasta salads will be tastier, I promise. (This works for rice and quinoa, too.)

For flavours, I wanted to give this recipe a bit of a Middle Eastern spin. This spicy basil dressing is a riff on pesto, with a touch of sweet from sun-dried tomatoes and heat from harissa paste. (You won't need all the dressing, but you can freeze the leftovers as you would pesto and use to flavour soups or pastas.) In the salad itself, I added preserved lemon for a salty-sour tang. And for the shrimp, which I added in just for fun – and to get a head start on dinner – I chose sumac and cumin, both earthy spices. The result is a bold, intensely flavoured and unique salad. Mainstay material? I'm not sure my focus group of one can make that decision. I'll have to trial it on May 2-4!

Middle-Eastern Spiced Shrimp & Israeli Cous Cous Salad with Spicy Basil Dressing 
Prep Time: 20 min. | Total Time: 1 hr. | Serves: 4 

For the Spicy Basil Dressing
2 cups packed fresh basil leaves, washed and dried
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tbsp sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
generous pinch salt
1 tsp harissa paste 

Place basil, garlic and sun-dried tomatoes in a blender. Blend until lightly chopped. Continue blending, slowly adding oil. Blend until combined. Remove sauce from blender. Add salt and harissa paste; stir to combine. Dressing can be made 1 to 2 days ahead, covered tightly with plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator.

For the Israeli Cous Cous Salad
1 bunch asparagus, washed and trimmed
2 tbsp olive oil, divided
2 cups Israeli Cous Cous
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 yellow pepper finely chopped
1 tsp finely chopped preserved lemon or zest of 1 lemon 
4 tbsp Spicy Basil Sauce
1 tbsp lemon juice

Preheat oven to 375ºF. Toss asparagus in 1 tbsp oil and place on a roasting tray. Roast for approx. 15 to 20 min. Remove from oven, set aside to cool. Chop asparagus into bite sized pieces. 

Meanwhile, cook Israeli Cous Cous in salted boiling water for approx. 8 to 10 min. until al dente. Drain, spread on a roasting tray and toss in remaining olive oil. Place in refrigerator to cool. 

Place cooled asparagus, Israeli Cous Cous, shallot, yellow pepper, preserved lemon, Spicy Basil Sauce and lemon juice in a bowl. Toss to combine. Adjust seasoning as necessary.

For the Shrimp
1 tsp each sumac and ground cumin
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 lb shrimp, shell on, cleaned and deveined
1 tbsp olive oil

In a small bowl, mix spices together. Pat shrimp dry. In a large bowl, toss shrimp with spices. 

Pat shrimp dry. Heat oil in a medium skillet or grill pan on medium high heat. Sear shrimp on both sides and cook until opaque, approx. 7 min. 

Tuesday 22 April 2014

A Winning Recipe For Artichokes

 Meaty artichokes are perfectly matched with a pungent garlic-anchovy dressing   

I love artichokes. I have fond memories of gorging on them one family holiday in California. I was a rapt audience as my mom and her friend trimmed, boiled, stuffed and baked them. This was an afternoon project, a proverbial labour of love. We'd eat them as an appetizer, first dipping the leaves in melted butter, scraping the tender meat with our teeth, working our way to the heart, which was covered in a soft, herby cheese. At 17, I couldn't imagine a more decadent, sensual food experience. I think just about everyone who isn't a chef, and maybe even some of them too, has a cooking nemesis. The ingredient or recipe that intimidates the hell out of you. Something that at once draws you to it and simultaneously pushes you away, saying no you will screw me up, don't even try it. Despite or perhaps because of my nostalgic memories, for me that ingredient has been artichokes. In my professional career, I have researched and written about them. I have concepted and edited recipes in which they star. But I always shy away from cooking them. My husband jokes about it every time we see them at the market; that he has no idea what they taste like, he'll hold one up and quizzically ask what vegetable it is. He's funny, my husband.


Purple Artichokes
I couldn't turn away from these lovely purple-hued chokes 

I read a great blog post recently by Anna Watson Carl on The Yellow Table about fear. It's strange the things we're intimidated by because often they are things that will be rewarding, uplifting and even pleasurable, when achieved, while the downfall of any failing will be so small in comparison. My issue with artichokes came from the fact that there's a lot of prep and that maybe they wouldn't be that good after all that work. And it's a fear not without its justification – I've had this experience when I've tackled them in the past. But then I saw some gorgeous "sangria" artichokes at Whole Foods and they were so lovely, I kept circling back to them. Finally, I decided to buy them and come at the process with a different viewpoint. They are a vegetable. I cook all manner of vegetables all the time, confidently and without a recipe. I am also equipped with technical knowledge of how to prepare said vegetable. Why not forget fancy recipes and focus on prepping the artichokes and then marrying with flavours I enjoy? And that's what I did. 

Preparing artichokes isn't actually difficult. Just a little fussy. The basic idea is to remove anything really tough or inedible, just as you would with any other vegetable. On most young, medium sized artichokes, the stem is as tasty as the heart, so you just need to peel it. You can get fancy and trim the tops of the leaves or you can just remove the tough outer leaves and cut the very tops off the artichoke. Artichokes brown easily, so either rub with a slice of lemon as you make cuts or place in a bowl of lemon water. The choke is not as scary as it sounds. It's the fuzzy centre of the artichoke that sits above the heart. When quartering artichokes, you can use a spoon or melon baller to remove from each quarter and then give the choke a rinse. Or, if you're paring the artichoke all the way down to the heart and keeping it intact, you can just scrape it off the top. At the end of the day, some of the work lies in the hands of the person eating the artichoke. They will eat the leaves that are tender enough, scrape the meat off the leaves that are not and eat the heart that is the real gift of the artichoke. So as I told myself, don't worry about it so much. 

For flavours, I turned to an unbeatable Italian trio: garlic, anchovies and chili flakes. If you're not sold on anchovies, I understand, leave 'em out. But if you're just turned off by the thought of anchovy, maybe give it a try. The flavours marry so well, and they're not fishy. Just really delicious. They get a bit crisp as they fry. You'll want bread for mopping it all up. 

So as you can see from this post, I am intimidated no more. They turned out great. Actually, better than great! I would love to hear what food has been your foe in the kitchen – perhaps we can tackle it together!


Simmering Artichokes
Give artichokes a simmer before sautéing

Sautéed Artichokes with Garlic, Anchovies & Chili 
Prep Time: 25 min. | Total Time: 50 min. | Makes: 4
2 lemons, divided 
4 medium artichokes
pinch salt  
2 bay leaves 
2 large cloves garlic
3 to 4 anchovy fillets (packed in oil)
1/2 tsp chili flakes (to taste) 
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Slice one of the lemons in half and squeeze into the water. Prepare artichokes, working one at a time, by removing any really tough outer leaves, cutting off tops of artichoke and peeling stems. Slice each artichoke in quarters, removing the fuzzy choke fibres using a teaspoon or melon baller. Place artichokes in lemon water to prevent browning. 

Cut second lemon into slices and place in a large pot with water, salt and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and place artichokes in water. Simmer for approx. 10 to 15 min. until tender. Drain.

Meanwhile, mince garlic and anchovy as finely as possible to make a paste (use a little salt for friction or a mortar and pestle if you have one). Heat oil in a large skillet on medium heat. Add garlic-anchovy paste and chili flakes. Place drained artichokes cut side down in skillet. Sauté until browned and turn to brown on other side.










Thursday 17 April 2014

Get Your Brunch On with Baked Eggs

Baked Eggs with Bacon, Gruyere & Caramelized Tomatoes
Baked eggs – they're begging you to dig in.  

Baked eggs. To me there is no better brunch dish. It's all the things you love about breakfast – eggs, bacon, tomatoes... cheese, even – cozied up together in a ramekin, bathed in a little cream and gently baked. Brilliant. I especially love they're versatility. You don't need a recipe – just flavours you enjoy; or, whatever's in your fridge. You can make as many or as few as you like. Contrary to what you may think, it's ideal for a crowd because you can prep the ramekins in the morning, stick them in the fridge and bake when you're ready. The only  slightly fiddly bit is baking the ramekins in a water bath, but this is a step worth taking as it ensures the eggs cook gently, resulting in the much sought-after perfectly runny yolk. In my oven, 18 minutes is just right to get the doneness on the eggs I like. If in doubt, pull them out a minute earlier rather than later, as they'll keep cooking for bit once they're out of the oven, and you can always put them back in, but you can't undo an over-cooked egg. Here's a sort-of recipe to inspire you, but play with the cheese, herbs and other ingredients. I've even seen a recipe for eggs baked in red wine! Try 'em out for Easter brunch or have them for dinner one night when you just can't face cooking anything else. 


Baked Eggs How-to
Prep, layer, bake and then dig in

Baked Eggs with Bacon, Gruyere & Caramelized Tomatoes
Prep Time: 15 min. | Total Time: 40 min. | Makes: 8 (1 egg each) or 4 (2 eggs each)
knob butter
1 cup sliced grape or cherry tomatoes 
1 clove garlic, finely sliced
pinch salt and pepper
1/2 tsp thyme leaves, divided 
6 to 8 slices bacon, chopped
8 eggs
1/4 cup heavy or whipping cream
3/4 cup finely grated Gruyere cheese 
pinch freshly grated nutmeg (optional)

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Melt butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Place garlic and half the thyme in skillet. Place tomatoes slice side down in skillet. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat until softened and lightly caramelized, approx. 7 to 10 min. 

Meanwhile cook bacon in a skillet until crisp. Remove from pan and place on a paper-towel lined plate to absorb fat. 

Place 8 small or 4 large ramekins in a baking dish or shallow roasting pan. Divide bacon and tomatoes evenly between ramekins. Crack 1 to 2 eggs in each ramekin. Top with remaining thyme. Top each ramekin evenly with cream and then sprinkle with cheese. Top with freshly grated pepper or nutmeg. 

Pour freshly boiled water into baking dish or roasting pan, filling about half way up the ramekins and being careful not to get any inside the ramekins.

Bake for approx. 18 min until eggs are set but yolk is still runny. 

Tuesday 15 April 2014

Pavlova Is The Ultimate Easter Dessert

Pavlova
She's a beaut – Pavlova has that wow-factor

Ever since my husband and I had our son last year, we've been talking a lot about family food traditions –  which ones we'll take from our respective families and which ones we want to create for ourselves. 

Pavlova is one food tradition we can both agree on. Both my mom and my MIL have made Pavlova for years, and it's a feature at most spring celebrations, especially Easter. My MIL, Bernie, has made Pavlova for catering events so frequently she could probably do it in her sleep. Until recently, I had never made it, because as can happen with family recipes, it wasn't my job and they both do such a good one. But with our family far away and this blog as my motivator, I decided it was time to learn. 

A large meringue topped with whipped cream and fresh fruit, Pavlova hails from Australia and New Zealand and is said to have been created to honour the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova in the 1920s. Though made up of just a few ingredients and taking only a few minutes to prepare, Pavlovas have a bit of a rep for being tricky. They can collapse, crack and seep sugary syrup. They can be overly chewy or brittle and dry. But when done well, they are heavenly. Crisp on the outside and soft and marshmallowy on the inside. The perfect vessel for whipped cream and any fruit topping. 

I have now made it twice. The first attempt tasted good and the texture was close but it was fairly flat – too few egg whites, no cornstarch. After a bit of research and a quick Skype with Bernie, I tried again. I was pretty happy with attempt number two. But I have a feeling that this will be one recipe I will work to perfect year after year, until, one day, it'll be my turn to pass it on, having learned all the secrets. 

In the meantime, here are the tips I've compiled from the experts du jour, my mom and my MIL:

• The more egg whites you use, the higher and more marshmallowy the Pavlova 
I used 5 for the one shown in the photograph, only because I got yolk into the white of one of my eggs (a big no-no) and was out of eggs. I think 6 egg whites is a good amount but if you want to increase, add a 1/4 cup sugar for every additional egg white. 
• Older eggs are better than fresh So say the mamas and food science agrees: the protein of the whites thins out, so they'll whip up more easily.
Make sure the eggs are at room temperature My MIL is so adamant about this, she cracks her whites the night before and leaves them on the kitchen counter. I would say leave at room temp for at least an hour.
• Use a metal bowl and make sure it's clean You don't have to use a stand mixer, but you do have to use a metal bowl. Any grease, which can accumulate in plastic bowls, will prevent your eggs from whipping. To ensure your bowl is clean, wipe with white vinegar and dry with a paper towel. 
• Use superfine or castor sugar and add by the tbsp to ensure it becomes fully incorporated Once the sugar is added and the whites are glossy and whipped to stiff peaks, the sugar should be completely dissolved. You can test this by pinching the meringue between your fingers – you shouldn't feel any granuals. If you do, keep whipping. But don't over-whip – that causes seeping!
• Use cornstarch Some recipes call for vinegar or boiling water as well, but my family experts say cornstarch is the key. I made one with and one without, and I found the one without to have a lot less volume. 
• Finally, don't open the oven door! Terrible things will happen! It will collapse or crack! The sky will fall! To be safe, both my mom and MIL, leave it in the oven overnight to dry out and cool very gradually, and, now, so do I. 

Pavlova How-To
Pavlova before and after cooking and ready to assemble

Pavlova
Prep Time: 15 min. | Total Time: 1 hr. 45 min. plus cooling time 

6 egg whites, room temperature
1-1/2 cups superfine granulated sugar
2 tsp cornstarch, sifted

Preheat oven to 225ºF. Draw a 9-inch circle with pencil on a piece of parchment paper. Flip parchment over and place on a baking sheet. 

Using a stand mixer with whisk attachment, whip egg whites on medium speed until frothy. Increase speed a notch and begin adding sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, allowing each tbsp to become fully incorporated before adding the next. Add cornstarch and allow to incorporate. This process may take approx. 5 to 7 min. Increase speed to maximum and whip until peaks are stiff and glossy. To test meringue, pinch small amount of mixture between your fingers; the sugar should be completely dissolved. 

Scoop meringue onto parchment circle, spreading to edges and making a slight concave in the centre. 

Place in oven and immediately reduce temperature to 200ºF. Bake for 1-1/2 hours. Without opening oven door, turn off oven and leave pavlova to cool slowly overnight. 

When ready to serve, fill with whipped cream and fresh fruit like passion fruit, sliced strawberries or raspberries.



Thursday 3 April 2014

Everything in Moderation Except for Brownies

Chocolate Brownies
A brownie a day keeps the stress away

Are you feeling stressed out? Too much on the go? Succumbing to the cult of busy that everyone is nattering on about right now? 

I have the antidote. Brownies. Brownies are soothing for so many reasons, not least of which is making them. This recipe is as simple as it gets, and that's what I love about it. I don't have to think. It doesn't require fiddling or finesse. Measure, melt, stir, pour. That is all. For me, last night, after a busy, busy day of juggling all the things a work-from-home mom juggles, it was just what I needed to lower my shoulders away from my ears.

Take a bite of a warm, gooey, chocolatey piece of heaven. Wash it down with a glass of ice cold milk. And let the world slide away for a minute.

There now, isn't that better? 

Simply Brownies 
Prep Time: 10 min. | Total Time: 1 hour | Makes: 24

1-1/4 cups dark bittersweet chocolate 
1 cup butter
2 cups sugar
1 tbsp vanilla extract
4 eggs
1 cup all purpose flour
1/4 tsp kosher salt
1 cup toasted, chopped walnuts

Preheat oven to 350ºF.

In a large saucepan, melt together chocolate and butter, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. 

Whisk in sugar and vanilla. Whisk in eggs, one at a time. Gradually stir in flour and salt until well combined. Stir in walnuts. Pour batter into a parchment-paper lined 9x13" baking pan. 

Bake for 35 to 40 min. Cool slightly in pan on a wire rack. Use parchment to remove brownies from pan onto chopping board and cut into 24 pieces.